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Edinburgh’s seaside Portobello (AKA Porty) has become a hub for people into food, art, independent shops, and sea swimming. From artisan bakeries and independent bookshops to contemporary art galleries and seaside saunas, here’s our pick of the places to eat, drink, shop and explore in Portobello
Printworks – Breakfast on the Prom
Just steps from the beach, Printworks is great for sit-in breakfasts and lazy brunches in Portobello. Expect hearty portions, good flavours, and a jazz-based soundtrack. It’s a good place to start your day.
Twelve Triangles – Sourdough and Pastries
No visit to Portobello is complete without joining the weekend queue outside Twelve Triangles, one of Edinburgh’s most loved artisan bakeries. Known for its slow-fermented sourdough and legendary cinnamon knots, this bakery has helped redefine what a neighbourhood bakery can be.
The Portobello Bookshop – Independent and Inspiring
Book lovers will adore The Portobello Bookshop, a light-filled, beautifully curated independent store that has fast become one of Edinburgh’s cultural hubs. Alongside a thoughtful selection of books, they host regular author events and readings, making it a vibrant part of the local literary scene.
Dook – Natural Soap Made in Portobello
Dook is a gem of a shop, hand-crafting natural salt soaps and sustainable skincare products right here in Portobello. The soaps are made with organic ingredients, essential oils and natural colourings. The shop smells divine and the ever-changing window displays are works of art too. A perfect stop if you’re looking for an eco-friendly gift or a treat for yourself.
Velvet Easel Gallery – Contemporary Scottish Art
Art lovers should make time for the Velvet Easel Gallery, which showcases contemporary work from Scottish artists across painting, sculpture and mixed media. Their summer exhibition runs until late September, but with a programme that changes throughout the year, there’s always something new to discover. IThey have some fabulous gift ideas here too.
Traade – Ceramics, Vintage and Local Makers
Tucked away in Porty’s high street, Traade is a stylish concept store bringing together ceramics, vintage clothing and homewares from local artists and makers. There’s a coffe bar too so you can sip while you browse. Perfect for anyone who loves one-off pieces with character and craft.
Shrimpwreck – Fish Finger Sarnies
Messy, delicious, and absolutely unmissable, a Shrimpwreck fish finger sandwich is a Portobello rite of passage in our opinion. Crispy battered fish, creamy tartare sauces and a smattering of spicy Old Bay fries, it’s the ultimate seaside comfort food. Grab one to go and eat it overlooking the waves.
Civerino’s – Pizza by the Sea
Yes, you’ll find Civerino’s in Porty too. Their legendary 20-inch pizzas are every bit as impressive as you’d expect. They serve by the slice too – and the slices are as ig as your head. Share with friends (or not!) and soak up the vibe that makes this spot so popular all year round.
Nixos – Greek Street Food
Another favourite is the freshly-made gyros from Nixos on Portobello High Street. Packed with flavour and perfect for eating on the move, these wraps are the ideal companion for a beach walk or sunset picnic.
The Little Green Van – Coffee by Artisan Roast
Whether you grab a flat white on the go from the iconic Little Green Van on the prom or settle in for a chat with friends, this is where Porty gets its caffeine fix. The coffee is by Artisan Roast, one of Edinburgh’s pioneering specialty coffee roasters.
Soul Water Sauna – Seaside Sauna and Sea Dips
For a wellness experience with a difference, try a wood-fired sauna session on Portobello beach. Soul Water Sauna offers an invigorating way to unwind, especially if you brave the optional cold-water dip in the sea afterwards. A true Scandinavian-style ritual with a Scottish twist.
Aemilia – Artisan Pasta to Take Home
You should take yourself over to Aemilia‘s Instagram account to watch regular reels of the store’s owner, Kip and his daily pasta making. You can often see him IRL if you’re in Portobello early in the morning. The pasta here is the real deal and it tastes as good as it looks. Pair with one of the homemade sauces for the perfect weekend takeaway.
Smith & Gertrude – Fine Wine and Cheese
Locals rejoiced the arrival of Smith & Gertrude in Portobello. Upping the ante on the pub (without leaving the neighbourhood), this stylish spot serves up quality wines by the glass paired with artisan cheese boards. It’s a realxed venue, perfect for date nights with your other half or catch-ups with friends.
Joppa Rocks – Gelato and Sunsets
End your day with a cone of Oscar’s gelato from Joppa Rocks. From this vantage point you’ll get some of the best sunset views across the Firth of Forth, the perfect way to round off a day at Edinburgh’s seaside.
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